✔ The BEST WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight, 10" in Georgia ☞ 2020
The BEST WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight, 10" in Georgia
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Product WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight, 10"
Images WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight, 10"
3.5 amp motor creates cuts up to six inches deep and 9-3/4 inches wide Uses 72-inch blades anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 inches in size Spacious 14-1/8 x 12-1/2 inch work table bevels up to 45 degrees Operates at two speeds of either 1520 or 2620 FPM Optional stand allows for either floor standing or bench top applications Includes a 2-year warranty, a stand, a work light, a 3-in-1 dust port, a fence, a miter gauge, and a 3/8-inch blade (6 TPI)
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for the weight of the product of WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Wo .. buying up to 4 units the shipping is free for Mulford
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If I send it to you for free from WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with S to Langston
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The sending of WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklig .. has no cost for Grady -Arkansas
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If I send it to you for free from WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Sta to Point MacKenzie - Alaska
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if we send to the Whitesboro area and it's free WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and
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There is no cost to send WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and to Lutak - Alaska
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If the delivery of WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with S .. is free for Bakersfield - California
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There is no cost to send WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Sta to Louisville
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shipping is fast and free for Marbury from WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with St
- they come from the Aleneva - Alaska zone. Thank you
The sending of WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and W .. has no cost for Aleneva - Alaska
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- reaches Commerce City I ask before asking
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- If I buy today, will you send it to me for free? i'm from Odenville
there is a lot of stock therefore it is free to Odenville from WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand
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for the weight of the product of WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand .. buying up to 4 units the shipping is free for Kinsey
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- Good morning, if I ask today, will shipping cost?
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For the price, this bandsaw offers a great set of features. As a hobbyist, the quality of the parts seems high enough for my needs, and putting the saw together out of the box was a breeze. Like some others, however, I've found the tracking adjustment to be a horrendous time sink. Following the advice in the manual got me spotty results - the blade would run centered while turning the wheel by hand, but would slide off the front of the wheel when the motor was engaged. If I was quick about it I could "catch" the blade from running off the wheel by making tiny adjustments just after the motor was turned on - but was having to do this every time I used the saw - which seems crazy. I read the other reviews here and tried making some adjustments to the lower wheel as described - this seemed to get closer, but similarly, if I made any adjustments to the tension on the blade after getting the blade to run centered on the wheels, all heck broke loose and I was starting from square 1 again. **WARNING: I'm certain the following recommendation has the potential to void any kind of warranty Wen may offer. Proceed at your own risk.** Finally - brokenhearted - I resorted to reading more about bandsaw tuning (and bandsaw setups in general) in hopes of understanding where I went wrong. As some others have pointed out, Wen seems to be using flat tires on these bandsaw wheels. While I'm sure this can be done effectively, as a last ditch effort I found a few guides on how to crown a flat tire (see about the 18:00 minute mark: https://youtu.be/zz04k-GMF38). Using 150 grit sand paper on a 1"x1" stick, I gently crowned both wheels using Keith's technique. Voila!! Game Changer. After doing this, the blade stays put on the center of the wheel! No more micro-adjustments at every start-up! I can change the tension on the blade between general cutting and re-sawing and not need to do any re-adjusting of the tracking! I have not yet tried a thinner blade, but if I do get one I'll report back on the success/failure I experience. Go forth and bandsaw, my friends. And if you just can't get the blade to stay on... consider breaking out some sand paper.
The WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight 10" is both amazing and enraging, so be prepared for that. Part of the problem is that all 9" and 10" bandsaws are inherently flimsier than their substantially heavier, beefier, and more expensive 14" or larger counterparts. Thus, regardless of brand, in this size range you can expect noticeably less horsepower, substantially more vibration, and more fiddly controls on these smaller saws. In terms of cutting capacity and cutting performance, the WEN is about as good as it gets for a 10" bandsaw under $500--and really, its performance is truly impressive when it's set up correctly. The downside is that it can be extremely difficult to get it adjusted just right. Cost-to-performance ratio is very good. The typical going rate for these WEN 10" bandsaws seems to be around $270; however, I found mine at a large orange big box home improvement store for $199 and free shipping. Looking around for deals can indeed pay off in savings. Initial assembly is relatively easy and straightforward. Attach four steel legs and cross supports using the supplied bolts, then attach the worktable. Now you're ready to install the blade and begin making the requisite adjustments to get it running. Here's where things get complicated, as the WEN is exceptionally sensitive to adjustments and fairly unforgiving if you don't dial it in right. Setting it up with the included 3/8" blade is time-consuming but not outrageous. However, minor adjustments to tracking and blade tension make significant differences in the quality of cut, so you do have to put in the time to find the sweet spot. My guess is that many people wrongly conclude that this saw performs poorly because they lack the knowledge or patience to set it up correctly. Unfortunately, setup is complicated by the fact that there are no markings on the tension spring to help you get in the right ballpark for that setting. Like most adjustments on this machine, you have to rely on trial and error. Worse, since the tension adjustment knob is plastic, it is VERY easy to tighten it just a little too much and then "BANG!" The knob will pop right off the top of the shaft leaving you with no tension control. That's what happened to me after twisting the knob just a few times too many to increase tension after my first test cut. Fortunately, my first test cut had revealed the potential for high quality cuts so, even though my tension knob broke early on, I wasn't ready to give up and send it back. To fix it, I used a clamp to lift the spring-loaded tensioning post back up through the top of the machine, then pressed the plastic knob back into place, then drilled an 1/8" hole straight through the knob collar and the center of the tensioning post and slid in an old 1/8" drill bit to pin it in place. This fix works great and is considerably more durable than the original, flimsy design, which evidently relied on a tiny molded piece of plastic to hold the knob on (no wonder it shears off so easily under tension!). For the annoyance of having to perform a minor repair on an essential control on day one, I deducted one star. With my bandsaw back in action, I spent about two hours experimenting with adjustments to the blade tracking on the upper wheel and the positions of the top and bottom guide bearings to get things running smoothly. After a steep learning curve and a lot of frustration, I had it running great and was BLOWN AWAY by the quality of the cut. A bigger, beefier machine might cut marginally better, but only marginally! No, I'm not kidding. When adjusted well, this thing cuts very, very well. Even the cheap aluminum fence that comes with it is more than solid enough to guide a piece of plywood through the blade with less than 1/64" variance off of perfectly straight! Just to be clear, that's accurate enough to slice BETWEEN the plys in a piece of plywood while keeping the blade within the thickness of the glue line! At $200, who could complain about that? That convinced me the WEN 10" bandsaw is a solid 4-star machine: It offers 5-star cuts at a 5-star price, but with frustratingly fi nnicky 3-star adjustment controls. If you think you'll stick with 3/8" blades, you'll be very pleased for the price. My real troubles began when I installed an 1/8" blade (14 tpi) to allow me to cut more aggressive curves. With a thinner blade, the setup challenges increase EXPONENTIALLY. Since thinner blades are more sensitive to tracking adjustments, even a slight misalignment can cause the blade to abruptly run off the end of the wheel and either ride on the slim metal bearing surface next to the rubber tire or jump off altogether with a dangerous snap. No matter how I adjusted the upper wheel, even when I thought I had it working properly, the blade would eventually drift when the blade was properly tensioned. Backing off the tension fixed the tracking, but made for a sloppy cut. Thus, after much experimentation, I concluded the bottom wheel was not aligned properly. This should have been set properly at the factory, is harder to adjust than the upper wheel, and the process of adjusting it is not explained in th e instructions. Nevertheless, I forged ahead. [IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always unplug your saw before making adjustments to the blade! Spin the upper wheel swiftly BY HAND to test the tracking/alignment; do not plug it in and run it until you're certain it is set correctly. Always wear eye protection and be careful! Even once you think the blade is set up properly, ALWAYS test the saw on start up by "jogging" the power switch instantly on then off. This is significantly safer than flipping it on and having the blade whip off while the wheels are still running full-bore, which is markedly more dangerous.] Four screws hold the lower wheel axle in position where it protrudes out the back of the saw. The left/right adjustment of the lower wheel seemed fine so I did not touch the screws to either side of the axle, however the top and bottom screws set the vertical aligment of the wheel and thus, determine how well the blade centers and tracks. You have to tighten and loosen them symmetrically to make adjustments. To shift the blade further INWARD on the lower wheel (closer to the rear casing), loosen the top screw and tighten the bottom screw in approximately 1/4-turn increments (turning them both counter-clockwise as you look DOWN on the bolts from above the worktable). To shift blade further OUTWARD on the lower wheel (closer to the door cover), do the reverse: loosen the bottom screw and tighten the top screw (again, turn both clockwise as you look DOWN on the bolts from above the worktable). The really tricky thing here is that adjustments to the bottom wheel tracking also affect the top wheel tracking, so you have to get the top wheel tracking well, then spin it to see how things ride on the lower wheel. Then adjust the lower wheel as needed. Then see how it affects the top wheel tracking and adjust the upper wheel tracking to compensate. Repeat this process until you have both wheels tracking relatively well. In my case, I found that the ideal setup has the gullet of the blade aligned almost exactly in the center of the top wheel and slightly further back (inward) on the lower wheel (about 1/16" closer to the rear casing than it is on the top wheel). As you can tell from that description, this is all VERY time consuming. Worse, you will have to repeat it multiple times because whenever you come back to the saw for a new project, if you even breathe wrong on the controls, you can throw everything off to the point of having to start over from scratch to get things running right again. (One reason is because 1/8" blades also develop minor bends/kinks very easily when they get thrown off track. Those kinks, however minor, can subsequently affect their tracking performance.) Getting such a narrow blade to track reliably is further complicated by the fact that, if the tension is set too high or too low, it can abruptly wander and skip off the wheels. In other words, you need proper tracking to find the proper tension adjustment, and you need proper tension to find the proper tracking adjustments. This is a big guessing game with a lot of swearing and thrown blades along the way. Surely, it is clear why I say this saw can be maddening. With an 1/8" blade, the adjustment controls are truly, unbelievably fiddly. Moreover, the tires/blade bearing surfaces of the upper and lower wheels are about half as wide as they would be on larger 14" bandsaws, so there is little tolerance for error when a blade begins to wander. Even at the lower speed, it doesn't take long before "BANG!"... the blade jumps off. For that reason, I deducted another star, as this is not a small annoyance and one that will take quite a lot of time to effectively mitigate (I do think it will lessen as one becomes more experienced and familiar with the aforementioned issues). Notably, despite dozens of experiences with the blade jumping off, I have never once been injured. The doors, the table, and the adjustable blade guides do a good job capturing the blade, so that is some comfort, even if it doesn't eliminate the intimidation factor of setting up this saw. If setup is that finnicky, you're probably wondering: "Why bother?" Well, when you finally do get it set up properly, HOLY COW does it cut unbelievably well for a small, affordable bandsaw! I'm not kidding. The depth-of-cut capacity for this saw is 6" (best in class for this size). To test out the quality of cut, I ran a 5-3/4" tall piece of 1/2" thick plywood (approx 9" long) through to see how straight the 1/8" blade could cut. Keep in mind that the 1/8" blade is the smallest and therefore LEAST STRAIGHT CUTTING BLADE you can install on this machine. It is really intended for curvy cuts (which it does very well!). Nevertheless, with that narrow blade installed, cutting slowly, and nearly maxxing out the depth of cut, I was able to use the cheap fence to cut a REMARKABLY straight line through a 9" length of plywood with LESS than 1/64" of drift to either side of th e infinitesimal glue line between the plys! If someone told me they could do that with a saw in this price range and a blade that thin, I would accuse them of fibbing, so I wouldn't blame you for being skeptical. See the images I posted for proof. To sum up: Be prepared for tedious adjustment headaches whenever you install a new blade--especially whenever you install a blade thinner than 3/8", which makes the already-sensitive tracking adjustments even more exasperating to dial in. However, once you have this baby running well, you can expect some of the best performance I've seen from any smaller benchtop bandsaw in the 10", sub-100 lbs., sub-$500 range. I was tempted to give it 4 stars based on its brilliant performance-for-the-dollar; however, ease of adjustment counts for a lot on a bandsaw, and this one suffers from hyper-sensitive controls, lower wheel misalignment from the factory that had to be corrected by trial-and-error, poor tension control design, no tension markings/scale, and relatively narrow wheels that make thin 1/8" blades very hard to get set up right and holding center. If you can overlook those issues and put in the time to figure it out, you'll undoubtedbly love the results you get from the cut. To do any better, you're going to have to spend substantially more on a substantially heavier and larger machine. One other note: Like most 10" or smaller bandsaws, the relatively light weight (approx. 70 lbs.) means more vibration. Don't expect this t o pass the "nickel test," but do expect it to give surprisingly good cuts nevertheless. Other notes: The worklight is practically useless since it is mounted on the back. The dust port doesn't work great with a shop vac, though perhaps it may work better for those who have a large dust collector. The front rail and the cheap aluminum fence work surprisingly well. The miter gauge can be made to work, but is about as cheap and flimsy as it could possibly get. With the low horsepower on these smaller 10" saws, they are not really intended for re-sawing, except on small pieces. This is not a portable lumber mill. It would take a long time and place significant strain on the 1/3 HP motor to "resaw" on any kind of regular basis. I recommend this saw for most small shop woodworkers who understand the frustrations I described. I do not recommend it for impatient and easily angered personality types.
The WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight 10" is both amazing and enraging, so be prepared for that. Part of the problem is that all 9" and 10" bandsaws are inherently flimsier than their substantially heavier, beefier, and more expensive 14" or larger counterparts. Thus, regardless of brand, in this size range you can expect noticeably less horsepower, substantially more vibration, and more fiddly controls on these smaller saws. In terms of cutting capacity and cutting performance, the WEN is about as good as it gets for a 10" bandsaw under $500--and really, its performance is truly impressive when it's set up correctly. The downside is that it can be extremely difficult to get it adjusted just right. Cost-to-performance ratio is very good. The typical going rate for these WEN 10" bandsaws seems to be around $270; however, I found mine at a large orange big box home improvement store for $199 and free shipping. Looking around for deals can indeed pay off in savings. Initial assembly is relatively easy and straightforward. Attach four steel legs and cross supports using the supplied bolts, then attach the worktable. Now you're ready to install the blade and begin making the requisite adjustments to get it running. Here's where things get complicated, as the WEN is exceptionally sensitive to adjustments and fairly unforgiving if you don't dial it in right. Setting it up with the included 3/8" blade is time-consuming but not outrageous. However, minor adjustments to tracking and blade tension make significant differences in the quality of cut, so you do have to put in the time to find the sweet spot. My guess is that many people wrongly conclude that this saw performs poorly because they lack the knowledge or patience to set it up correctly. Unfortunately, setup is complicated by the fact that there are no markings on the tension spring to help you get in the right ballpark for that setting. Like most adjustments on this machine, you have to rely on trial and error. Worse, since the tension adjustment knob is plastic, it is VERY easy to tighten it just a little too much and then "BANG!" The knob will pop right off the top of the shaft leaving you with no tension control. That's what happened to me after twisting the knob just a few times too many to increase tension after my first test cut. Fortunately, my first test cut had revealed the potential for high quality cuts so, even though my tension knob broke early on, I wasn't ready to give up and send it back. To fix it, I used a clamp to lift the spring-loaded tensioning post back up through the top of the machine, then pressed the plastic knob back into place, then drilled an 1/8" hole straight through the knob collar and the center of the tensioning post and slid in an old 1/8" drill bit to pin it in place. This fix works great and is considerably more durable than the original, flimsy design, which evidently relied on a tiny molded piece of plastic to hold the knob on (no wonder it shears off so easily under tension!). For the annoyance of having to perform a minor repair on an essential control on day one, I deducted one star. With my bandsaw back in action, I spent about two hours experimenting with adjustments to the blade tracking on the upper wheel and the positions of the top and bottom guide bearings to get things running smoothly. After a steep learning curve and a lot of frustration, I had it running great and was BLOWN AWAY by the quality of the cut. A bigger, beefier machine might cut marginally better, but only marginally! No, I'm not kidding. When adjusted well, this thing cuts very, very well. Even the cheap aluminum fence that comes with it is more than solid enough to guide a piece of plywood through the blade with less than 1/64" variance off of perfectly straight! Just to be clear, that's accurate enough to slice BETWEEN the plys in a piece of plywood while keeping the blade within the thickness of the glue line! At $200, who could complain about that? That convinced me the WEN 10" bandsaw is a solid 4-star machine: It offers 5-star cuts at a 5-star price, but with frustratingly fi nnicky 3-star adjustment controls. If you think you'll stick with 3/8" blades, you'll be very pleased for the price. My real troubles began when I installed an 1/8" blade (14 tpi) to allow me to cut more aggressive curves. With a thinner blade, the setup challenges increase EXPONENTIALLY. Since thinner blades are more sensitive to tracking adjustments, even a slight misalignment can cause the blade to abruptly run off the end of the wheel and either ride on the slim metal bearing surface next to the rubber tire or jump off altogether with a dangerous snap. No matter how I adjusted the upper wheel, even when I thought I had it working properly, the blade would eventually drift when the blade was properly tensioned. Backing off the tension fixed the tracking, but made for a sloppy cut. Thus, after much experimentation, I concluded the bottom wheel was not aligned properly. This should have been set properly at the factory, is harder to adjust than the upper wheel, and the process of adjusting it is not explained in th e instructions. Nevertheless, I forged ahead. [IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always unplug your saw before making adjustments to the blade! Spin the upper wheel swiftly BY HAND to test the tracking/alignment; do not plug it in and run it until you're certain it is set correctly. Always wear eye protection and be careful! Even once you think the blade is set up properly, ALWAYS test the saw on start up by "jogging" the power switch instantly on then off. This is significantly safer than flipping it on and having the blade whip off while the wheels are still running full-bore, which is markedly more dangerous.] Four screws hold the lower wheel axle in position where it protrudes out the back of the saw. The left/right adjustment of the lower wheel seemed fine so I did not touch the screws to either side of the axle, however the top and bottom screws set the vertical aligment of the wheel and thus, determine how well the blade centers and tracks. You have to tighten and loosen them symmetrically to make adjustments. To shift the blade further INWARD on the lower wheel (closer to the rear casing), loosen the top screw and tighten the bottom screw in approximately 1/4-turn increments (turning them both counter-clockwise as you look DOWN on the bolts from above the worktable). To shift blade further OUTWARD on the lower wheel (closer to the door cover), do the reverse: loosen the bottom screw and tighten the top screw (again, turn both clockwise as you look DOWN on the bolts from above the worktable). The really tricky thing here is that adjustments to the bottom wheel tracking also affect the top wheel tracking, so you have to get the top wheel tracking well, then spin it to see how things ride on the lower wheel. Then adjust the lower wheel as needed. Then see how it affects the top wheel tracking and adjust the upper wheel tracking to compensate. Repeat this process until you have both wheels tracking relatively well. In my case, I found that the ideal setup has the gullet of the blade aligned almost exactly in the center of the top wheel and slightly further back (inward) on the lower wheel (about 1/16" closer to the rear casing than it is on the top wheel). As you can tell from that description, this is all VERY time consuming. Worse, you will have to repeat it multiple times because whenever you come back to the saw for a new project, if you even breathe wrong on the controls, you can throw everything off to the point of having to start over from scratch to get things running right again. (One reason is because 1/8" blades also develop minor bends/kinks very easily when they get thrown off track. Those kinks, however minor, can subsequently affect their tracking performance.) Getting such a narrow blade to track reliably is further complicated by the fact that, if the tension is set too high or too low, it can abruptly wander and skip off the wheels. In other words, you need proper tracking to find the proper tension adjustment, and you need proper tension to find the proper tracking adjustments. This is a big guessing game with a lot of swearing and thrown blades along the way. Surely, it is clear why I say this saw can be maddening. With an 1/8" blade, the adjustment controls are truly, unbelievably fiddly. Moreover, the tires/blade bearing surfaces of the upper and lower wheels are about half as wide as they would be on larger 14" bandsaws, so there is little tolerance for error when a blade begins to wander. Even at the lower speed, it doesn't take long before "BANG!"... the blade jumps off. For that reason, I deducted another star, as this is not a small annoyance and one that will take quite a lot of time to effectively mitigate (I do think it will lessen as one becomes more experienced and familiar with the aforementioned issues). Notably, despite dozens of experiences with the blade jumping off, I have never once been injured. The doors, the table, and the adjustable blade guides do a good job capturing the blade, so that is some comfort, even if it doesn't eliminate the intimidation factor of setting up this saw. If setup is that finnicky, you're probably wondering: "Why bother?" Well, when you finally do get it set up properly, HOLY COW does it cut unbelievably well for a small, affordable bandsaw! I'm not kidding. The depth-of-cut capacity for this saw is 6" (best in class for this size). To test out the quality of cut, I ran a 5-3/4" tall piece of 1/2" thick plywood (approx 9" long) through to see how straight the 1/8" blade could cut. Keep in mind that the 1/8" blade is the smallest and therefore LEAST STRAIGHT CUTTING BLADE you can install on this machine. It is really intended for curvy cuts (which it does very well!). Nevertheless, with that narrow blade installed, cutting slowly, and nearly maxxing out the depth of cut, I was able to use the cheap fence to cut a REMARKABLY straight line through a 9" length of plywood with LESS than 1/64" of drift to either side of th e infinitesimal glue line between the plys! If someone told me they could do that with a saw in this price range and a blade that thin, I would accuse them of fibbing, so I wouldn't blame you for being skeptical. See the images I posted for proof. To sum up: Be prepared for tedious adjustment headaches whenever you install a new blade--especially whenever you install a blade thinner than 3/8", which makes the already-sensitive tracking adjustments even more exasperating to dial in. However, once you have this baby running well, you can expect some of the best performance I've seen from any smaller benchtop bandsaw in the 10", sub-100 lbs., sub-$500 range. I was tempted to give it 4 stars based on its brilliant performance-for-the-dollar; however, ease of adjustment counts for a lot on a bandsaw, and this one suffers from hyper-sensitive controls, lower wheel misalignment from the factory that had to be corrected by trial-and-error, poor tension control design, no tension markings/scale, and relatively narrow wheels that make thin 1/8" blades very hard to get set up right and holding center. If you can overlook those issues and put in the time to figure it out, you'll undoubtedbly love the results you get from the cut. To do any better, you're going to have to spend substantially more on a substantially heavier and larger machine. One other note: Like most 10" or smaller bandsaws, the relatively light weight (approx. 70 lbs.) means more vibration. Don't expect this t o pass the "nickel test," but do expect it to give surprisingly good cuts nevertheless. Other notes: The worklight is practically useless since it is mounted on the back. The dust port doesn't work great with a shop vac, though perhaps it may work better for those who have a large dust collector. The front rail and the cheap aluminum fence work surprisingly well. The miter gauge can be made to work, but is about as cheap and flimsy as it could possibly get. With the low horsepower on these smaller 10" saws, they are not really intended for re-sawing, except on small pieces. This is not a portable lumber mill. It would take a long time and place significant strain on the 1/3 HP motor to "resaw" on any kind of regular basis. I recommend this saw for most small shop woodworkers who understand the frustrations I described. I do not recommend it for impatient and easily angered personality types.
The WEN 3962 Two-Speed Band Saw with Stand and Worklight 10" is both amazing and enraging, so be prepared for that. Part of the problem is that all 9" and 10" bandsaws are inherently flimsier than their substantially heavier, beefier, and more expensive 14" or larger counterparts. Thus, regardless of brand, in this size range you can expect noticeably less horsepower, substantially more vibration, and more fiddly controls on these smaller saws. In terms of cutting capacity and cutting performance, the WEN is about as good as it gets for a 10" bandsaw under $500--and really, its performance is truly impressive when it's set up correctly. The downside is that it can be extremely difficult to get it adjusted just right. Cost-to-performance ratio is very good. The typical going rate for these WEN 10" bandsaws seems to be around $270; however, I found mine at a large orange big box home improvement store for $199 and free shipping. Looking around for deals can indeed pay off in savings. Initial assembly is relatively easy and straightforward. Attach four steel legs and cross supports using the supplied bolts, then attach the worktable. Now you're ready to install the blade and begin making the requisite adjustments to get it running. Here's where things get complicated, as the WEN is exceptionally sensitive to adjustments and fairly unforgiving if you don't dial it in right. Setting it up with the included 3/8" blade is time-consuming but not outrageous. However, minor adjustments to tracking and blade tension make significant differences in the quality of cut, so you do have to put in the time to find the sweet spot. My guess is that many people wrongly conclude that this saw performs poorly because they lack the knowledge or patience to set it up correctly. Unfortunately, setup is complicated by the fact that there are no markings on the tension spring to help you get in the right ballpark for that setting. Like most adjustments on this machine, you have to rely on trial and error. Worse, since the tension adjustment knob is plastic, it is VERY easy to tighten it just a little too much and then "BANG!" The knob will pop right off the top of the shaft leaving you with no tension control. That's what happened to me after twisting the knob just a few times too many to increase tension after my first test cut. Fortunately, my first test cut had revealed the potential for high quality cuts so, even though my tension knob broke early on, I wasn't ready to give up and send it back. To fix it, I used a clamp to lift the spring-loaded tensioning post back up through the top of the machine, then pressed the plastic knob back into place, then drilled an 1/8" hole straight through the knob collar and the center of the tensioning post and slid in an old 1/8" drill bit to pin it in place. This fix works great and is considerably more durable than the original, flimsy design, which evidently relied on a tiny molded piece of plastic to hold the knob on (no wonder it shears off so easily under tension!). For the annoyance of having to perform a minor repair on an essential control on day one, I deducted one star. With my bandsaw back in action, I spent about two hours experimenting with adjustments to the blade tracking on the upper wheel and the positions of the top and bottom guide bearings to get things running smoothly. After a steep learning curve and a lot of frustration, I had it running great and was BLOWN AWAY by the quality of the cut. A bigger, beefier machine might cut marginally better, but only marginally! No, I'm not kidding. When adjusted well, this thing cuts very, very well. Even the cheap aluminum fence that comes with it is more than solid enough to guide a piece of plywood through the blade with less than 1/64" variance off of perfectly straight! Just to be clear, that's accurate enough to slice BETWEEN the plys in a piece of plywood while keeping the blade within the thickness of the glue line! At $200, who could complain about that? That convinced me the WEN 10" bandsaw is a solid 4-star machine: It offers 5-star cuts at a 5-star price, but with frustratingly fi nnicky 3-star adjustment controls. If you think you'll stick with 3/8" blades, you'll be very pleased for the price. My real troubles began when I installed an 1/8" blade (14 tpi) to allow me to cut more aggressive curves. With a thinner blade, the setup challenges increase EXPONENTIALLY. Since thinner blades are more sensitive to tracking adjustments, even a slight misalignment can cause the blade to abruptly run off the end of the wheel and either ride on the slim metal bearing surface next to the rubber tire or jump off altogether with a dangerous snap. No matter how I adjusted the upper wheel, even when I thought I had it working properly, the blade would eventually drift when the blade was properly tensioned. Backing off the tension fixed the tracking, but made for a sloppy cut. Thus, after much experimentation, I concluded the bottom wheel was not aligned properly. This should have been set properly at the factory, is harder to adjust than the upper wheel, and the process of adjusting it is not explained in th e instructions. Nevertheless, I forged ahead. [IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always unplug your saw before making adjustments to the blade! Spin the upper wheel swiftly BY HAND to test the tracking/alignment; do not plug it in and run it until you're certain it is set correctly. Always wear eye protection and be careful! Even once you think the blade is set up properly, ALWAYS test the saw on start up by "jogging" the power switch instantly on then off. This is significantly safer than flipping it on and having the blade whip off while the wheels are still running full-bore, which is markedly more dangerous.] Four screws hold the lower wheel axle in position where it protrudes out the back of the saw. The left/right adjustment of the lower wheel seemed fine so I did not touch the screws to either side of the axle, however the top and bottom screws set the vertical aligment of the wheel and thus, determine how well the blade centers and tracks. You have to tighten and loosen them symmetrically to make adjustments. To shift the blade further INWARD on the lower wheel (closer to the rear casing), loosen the top screw and tighten the bottom screw in approximately 1/4-turn increments (turning them both counter-clockwise as you look DOWN on the bolts from above the worktable). To shift blade further OUTWARD on the lower wheel (closer to the door cover), do the reverse: loosen the bottom screw and tighten the top screw (again, turn both clockwise as you look DOWN on the bolts from above the worktable). The really tricky thing here is that adjustments to the bottom wheel tracking also affect the top wheel tracking, so you have to get the top wheel tracking well, then spin it to see how things ride on the lower wheel. Then adjust the lower wheel as needed. Then see how it affects the top wheel tracking and adjust the upper wheel tracking to compensate. Repeat this process until you have both wheels tracking relatively well. In my case, I found that the ideal setup has the gullet of the blade aligned almost exactly in the center of the top wheel and slightly further back (inward) on the lower wheel (about 1/16" closer to the rear casing than it is on the top wheel). As you can tell from that description, this is all VERY time consuming. Worse, you will have to repeat it multiple times because whenever you come back to the saw for a new project, if you even breathe wrong on the controls, you can throw everything off to the point of having to start over from scratch to get things running right again. (One reason is because 1/8" blades also develop minor bends/kinks very easily when they get thrown off track. Those kinks, however minor, can subsequently affect their tracking performance.) Getting such a narrow blade to track reliably is further complicated by the fact that, if the tension is set too high or too low, it can abruptly wander and skip off the wheels. In other words, you need proper tracking to find the proper tension adjustment, and you need proper tension to find the proper tracking adjustments. This is a big guessing game with a lot of swearing and thrown blades along the way. Surely, it is clear why I say this saw can be maddening. With an 1/8" blade, the adjustment controls are truly, unbelievably fiddly. Moreover, the tires/blade bearing surfaces of the upper and lower wheels are about half as wide as they would be on larger 14" bandsaws, so there is little tolerance for error when a blade begins to wander. Even at the lower speed, it doesn't take long before "BANG!"... the blade jumps off. For that reason, I deducted another star, as this is not a small annoyance and one that will take quite a lot of time to effectively mitigate (I do think it will lessen as one becomes more experienced and familiar with the aforementioned issues). Notably, despite dozens of experiences with the blade jumping off, I have never once been injured. The doors, the table, and the adjustable blade guides do a good job capturing the blade, so that is some comfort, even if it doesn't eliminate the intimidation factor of setting up this saw. If setup is that finnicky, you're probably wondering: "Why bother?" Well, when you finally do get it set up properly, HOLY COW does it cut unbelievably well for a small, affordable bandsaw! I'm not kidding. The depth-of-cut capacity for this saw is 6" (best in class for this size). To test out the quality of cut, I ran a 5-3/4" tall piece of 1/2" thick plywood (approx 9" long) through to see how straight the 1/8" blade could cut. Keep in mind that the 1/8" blade is the smallest and therefore LEAST STRAIGHT CUTTING BLADE you can install on this machine. It is really intended for curvy cuts (which it does very well!). Nevertheless, with that narrow blade installed, cutting slowly, and nearly maxxing out the depth of cut, I was able to use the cheap fence to cut a REMARKABLY straight line through a 9" length of plywood with LESS than 1/64" of drift to either side of th e infinitesimal glue line between the plys! If someone told me they could do that with a saw in this price range and a blade that thin, I would accuse them of fibbing, so I wouldn't blame you for being skeptical. See the images I posted for proof. To sum up: Be prepared for tedious adjustment headaches whenever you install a new blade--especially whenever you install a blade thinner than 3/8", which makes the already-sensitive tracking adjustments even more exasperating to dial in. However, once you have this baby running well, you can expect some of the best performance I've seen from any smaller benchtop bandsaw in the 10", sub-100 lbs., sub-$500 range. I was tempted to give it 4 stars based on its brilliant performance-for-the-dollar; however, ease of adjustment counts for a lot on a bandsaw, and this one suffers from hyper-sensitive controls, lower wheel misalignment from the factory that had to be corrected by trial-and-error, poor tension control design, no tension markings/scale, and relatively narrow wheels that make thin 1/8" blades very hard to get set up right and holding center. If you can overlook those issues and put in the time to figure it out, you'll undoubtedbly love the results you get from the cut. To do any better, you're going to have to spend substantially more on a substantially heavier and larger machine. One other note: Like most 10" or smaller bandsaws, the relatively light weight (approx. 70 lbs.) means more vibration. Don't expect this t o pass the "nickel test," but do expect it to give surprisingly good cuts nevertheless. Other notes: The worklight is practically useless since it is mounted on the back. The dust port doesn't work great with a shop vac, though perhaps it may work better for those who have a large dust collector. The front rail and the cheap aluminum fence work surprisingly well. The miter gauge can be made to work, but is about as cheap and flimsy as it could possibly get. With the low horsepower on these smaller 10" saws, they are not really intended for re-sawing, except on small pieces. This is not a portable lumber mill. It would take a long time and place significant strain on the 1/3 HP motor to "resaw" on any kind of regular basis. I recommend this saw for most small shop woodworkers who understand the frustrations I described. I do not recommend it for impatient and easily angered personality types.
Before buying the WEN I considered the Craftsman and Rikon 10" bandsaws. Although all 3 are very similar to each other, I decided on the WEN because of its added features. I have several WEN products. They tend to offer more features than their competitors, and they perform quite well. However, it has been my experience that some tweaking is necessary for them to work optimally. The WEN was delivered in the expected Prime 2-day shipping time by UPS. The box was a little battered but everything was intact inside. Assembly using the instructions was easy and without any problems. Out of the box the 3/8" 7 tpi stock blade made decent cuts in 2x4 pine. However, it was slow. I switched the belt to the high speed position and it helps speed up the cuts. Essentially, everything worked as described. However, the blade was about 1/16" right of center at the throat of the lower wheel house. This led to slanted cuts on the vertical axis. Not much of a problem with thin or rough cuts of wood but it created problems with anything that had any thickness or needed accuracy. Any serious resawing would be out of the question. Major problems appeared when I tried replacing the stock blade with a thinner blade. I like to use a 1/4" 4tpi skip blade most of the time for the type of work I like to do. Exchanging blades is fairly easy to do. The headache comes when you try to adjust the blade to track center on the tires. The 1/4" blade would run off the tires either front or back on the top and bottom wheels with minute adjustments. I couldn't get it centered when I applied proper tension. Another problem is proper blade tension. The instructions call for 1/10" deflection. This is too much tension for the 1/4" blade and contributes to the blade run off. I broke 3 blades before realizing that the instructions are wrong. I've found that proper blade tension for the 1/4" blade is between 3/16" and 1/4" defection. I use the flutter test method to find the right tension for the blade. It always puts the blade right between those 2 defection points. In the past, customer service has been great in replacing defective parts for my other WEN tools. Customer service knows about the tracking problem with thin blades, but they don't quite know how to solve the issue. Initially, they were clueless about the issue. After several calls, I was eventually given vague information about adjusting the bottom wheel. Finally the last time I called they emailed me some instructions on adjusting the bottom wheel. I had done a bit of Google searching looking for some solutions. However, there is little detailed information available. I eventually found detailed instructions and information about the bottom wheel adjustment and alignment in the Rikon 10-305 manual. In fact, the emailed instructions from WEN looks like it is partially taken from the Rikon instructions. With the right instructions, adjusting the bottom wheel alignment was straight forward and fairly easy. The 1/4" blade now tracks properly. I am now able to switch from the 1/4" to a 1/2" blade without having tracking problems. I solved the non-vertical blade alignment by removing both fly wheels and realigning the lower spindle and adjusting the upper spindle unit. The lower spindle is held on by a single hex nut. There is a small amount of play to allow the spindle to be shifted. Similarly, the upper spindle can be adjusted some by adjusting the two retaining brackets holding the tension plate and bevel block. With a little practice, setting the guides on the WEN is fairly easy. I squared the fence to the miter slot. Cuts are accurate and fast. All is good now and the bandsaw is ready for primetime. It just took a lot of patience and a bit of tweaking to get it right. I gave the WEN a 3 star rating because my unit was clearly not ready for primetime use. It was likely due to poor assembly and poor quality control. I have the distinct impression that the person who put together my bandsaw took a lunch break or had a loss of consciousness in the process of assembling the components on the machine. After correcting for WEN's mistakes, I have now a bandsaw that should have come out of the box in the first place. It far exceeds my expectations for a sub $250 bandsaw.
Before buying the WEN I considered the Craftsman and Rikon 10" bandsaws. Although all 3 are very similar to each other, I decided on the WEN because of its added features. I have several WEN products. They tend to offer more features than their competitors, and they perform quite well. However, it has been my experience that some tweaking is necessary for them to work optimally. The WEN was delivered in the expected Prime 2-day shipping time by UPS. The box was a little battered but everything was intact inside. Assembly using the instructions was easy and without any problems. Out of the box the 3/8" 7 tpi stock blade made decent cuts in 2x4 pine. However, it was slow. I switched the belt to the high speed position and it helps speed up the cuts. Essentially, everything worked as described. However, the blade was about 1/16" right of center at the throat of the lower wheel house. This led to slanted cuts on the vertical axis. Not much of a problem with thin or rough cuts of wood but it created problems with anything that had any thickness or needed accuracy. Any serious resawing would be out of the question. Major problems appeared when I tried replacing the stock blade with a thinner blade. I like to use a 1/4" 4tpi skip blade most of the time for the type of work I like to do. Exchanging blades is fairly easy to do. The headache comes when you try to adjust the blade to track center on the tires. The 1/4" blade would run off the tires either front or back on the top and bottom wheels with minute adjustments. I couldn't get it centered when I applied proper tension. Another problem is proper blade tension. The instructions call for 1/10" deflection. This is too much tension for the 1/4" blade and contributes to the blade run off. I broke 3 blades before realizing that the instructions are wrong. I've found that proper blade tension for the 1/4" blade is between 3/16" and 1/4" defection. I use the flutter test method to find the right tension for the blade. It always puts the blade right between those 2 defection points. In the past, customer service has been great in replacing defective parts for my other WEN tools. Customer service knows about the tracking problem with thin blades, but they don't quite know how to solve the issue. Initially, they were clueless about the issue. After several calls, I was eventually given vague information about adjusting the bottom wheel. Finally the last time I called they emailed me some instructions on adjusting the bottom wheel. I had done a bit of Google searching looking for some solutions. However, there is little detailed information available. I eventually found detailed instructions and information about the bottom wheel adjustment and alignment in the Rikon 10-305 manual. In fact, the emailed instructions from WEN looks like it is partially taken from the Rikon instructions. With the right instructions, adjusting the bottom wheel alignment was straight forward and fairly easy. The 1/4" blade now tracks properly. I am now able to switch from the 1/4" to a 1/2" blade without having tracking problems. I solved the non-vertical blade alignment by removing both fly wheels and realigning the lower spindle and adjusting the upper spindle unit. The lower spindle is held on by a single hex nut. There is a small amount of play to allow the spindle to be shifted. Similarly, the upper spindle can be adjusted some by adjusting the two retaining brackets holding the tension plate and bevel block. With a little practice, setting the guides on the WEN is fairly easy. I squared the fence to the miter slot. Cuts are accurate and fast. All is good now and the bandsaw is ready for primetime. It just took a lot of patience and a bit of tweaking to get it right. I gave the WEN a 3 star rating because my unit was clearly not ready for primetime use. It was likely due to poor assembly and poor quality control. I have the distinct impression that the person who put together my bandsaw took a lunch break or had a loss of consciousness in the process of assembling the components on the machine. After correcting for WEN's mistakes, I have now a bandsaw that should have come out of the box in the first place. It far exceeds my expectations for a sub $250 bandsaw.
For the price, this bandsaw offers a great set of features. As a hobbyist, the quality of the parts seems high enough for my needs, and putting the saw together out of the box was a breeze. Like some others, however, I've found the tracking adjustment to be a horrendous time sink. Following the advice in the manual got me spotty results - the blade would run centered while turning the wheel by hand, but would slide off the front of the wheel when the motor was engaged. If I was quick about it I could "catch" the blade from running off the wheel by making tiny adjustments just after the motor was turned on - but was having to do this every time I used the saw - which seems crazy. I read the other reviews here and tried making some adjustments to the lower wheel as described - this seemed to get closer, but similarly, if I made any adjustments to the tension on the blade after getting the blade to run centered on the wheels, all heck broke loose and I was starting from square 1 again. **WARNING: I'm certain the following recommendation has the potential to void any kind of warranty Wen may offer. Proceed at your own risk.** Finally - brokenhearted - I resorted to reading more about bandsaw tuning (and bandsaw setups in general) in hopes of understanding where I went wrong. As some others have pointed out, Wen seems to be using flat tires on these bandsaw wheels. While I'm sure this can be done effectively, as a last ditch effort I found a few guides on how to crown a flat tire (see about the 18:00 minute mark: https://youtu.be/zz04k-GMF38). Using 150 grit sand paper on a 1"x1" stick, I gently crowned both wheels using Keith's technique. Voila!! Game Changer. After doing this, the blade stays put on the center of the wheel! No more micro-adjustments at every start-up! I can change the tension on the blade between general cutting and re-sawing and not need to do any re-adjusting of the tracking! I have not yet tried a thinner blade, but if I do get one I'll report back on the success/failure I experience. Go forth and bandsaw, my friends. And if you just can't get the blade to stay on... consider breaking out some sand paper.
For the price, this bandsaw offers a great set of features. As a hobbyist, the quality of the parts seems high enough for my needs, and putting the saw together out of the box was a breeze. Like some others, however, I've found the tracking adjustment to be a horrendous time sink. Following the advice in the manual got me spotty results - the blade would run centered while turning the wheel by hand, but would slide off the front of the wheel when the motor was engaged. If I was quick about it I could "catch" the blade from running off the wheel by making tiny adjustments just after the motor was turned on - but was having to do this every time I used the saw - which seems crazy. I read the other reviews here and tried making some adjustments to the lower wheel as described - this seemed to get closer, but similarly, if I made any adjustments to the tension on the blade after getting the blade to run centered on the wheels, all heck broke loose and I was starting from square 1 again. **WARNING: I'm certain the following recommendation has the potential to void any kind of warranty Wen may offer. Proceed at your own risk.** Finally - brokenhearted - I resorted to reading more about bandsaw tuning (and bandsaw setups in general) in hopes of understanding where I went wrong. As some others have pointed out, Wen seems to be using flat tires on these bandsaw wheels. While I'm sure this can be done effectively, as a last ditch effort I found a few guides on how to crown a flat tire (see about the 18:00 minute mark: https://youtu.be/zz04k-GMF38). Using 150 grit sand paper on a 1"x1" stick, I gently crowned both wheels using Keith's technique. Voila!! Game Changer. After doing this, the blade stays put on the center of the wheel! No more micro-adjustments at every start-up! I can change the tension on the blade between general cutting and re-sawing and not need to do any re-adjusting of the tracking! I have not yet tried a thinner blade, but if I do get one I'll report back on the success/failure I experience. Go forth and bandsaw, my friends. And if you just can't get the blade to stay on... consider breaking out some sand paper.
Do NOT buy this machine. I know there are times when customers take out their frustrations by using hyperbole to trash the name of a company or product, but this is an instance when simple facts of the matter will do just fine. I am a hobby user who does wood carving of figurines or different small wooden objects--no re-sawing of massive chunks of firewood or cabinetry. An occasional 10-15 second cut of pine or maple stock.No hard angles whatsoever. On average, I would need a saw for 2-3 minutes of running time per week. I bought this band saw to save me time from having to make cuts that are too challenging or too painstaking to do with a handsaw. Boy, am I sorry I bought this saw. Plain and simple...the blade keeps coming out of adjustment (tension or bearings) and starts cutting inward toward the fence. There is no pressure gauge to tell the user how tight to keep the blade. The user's manual says there should be no more than 1/8 or 1/10 of an inch of movement when the blade is pushed. They don't say where to push. They don't say how hard to push. The first band saw I ordered (yes, I did say the first one), came out of the box and within 30 seconds of cutting a piece of 5/8 inch pine, the blade started cutting a rounded line toward the fence. If I hadn't stopped, the tension from the blade getting pinched in the wood would have caused the blade to snap. Figuring I was doing something wrong, I re-read the owner's manual cover to cover, which didn't take long. No resolution. I consulted YouTube, figuring there was someone else who knew more about band saws than I do. After trying approximately 8-10 different adjustment fixes, I came to the same realization as before. No resolution. A worker I know who knows a great deal about woodworking machinery came to my house and spent 20-30 minutes making adjustments, based on the manual and his own expertise. No resolution. I called WEN and explained the situation. After hearing all I had gone through, WEN very nicely (yes, I did just say they were nice) sent me a new band saw. I boxed up the first and sent it away in a WEN-paid Fed Ex shipment box. I set up the new saw, and for about 2 glorious weeks, the band saw performed the never more than 2-3 minutes of weekly cutting time that I required. Then, while cutting a piece of pine, the blade started turning again. Essentially, the new blade on the new band saw was doing the SAME thing as before. I called Amazon. They said it had been past the initial time period when they could do something (understandable) and that I needed to call either WEN or Square Trade, the insurance policy I'd bought at the time with the band saw. I called WEN and they said that the blade that they had put on the band saw in the factory was defective. I began to get that sinking feeling of having been suckered because why would there be two consecutive band saws with two consecutive defective blades. I told WEN that I didn't consider my experience with changing blades sufficient to eliminate a defective blade as being the culprit, so they recommended a shop near me that would complete the changing of the blade. Because the band saw at this point was past the initial 30 day period for Amazon to cover the cost of the repair and before the 2nd year of the warranty for my Square Trade insurance to kick in, I was on the hook for the $65 shop fee to figure out what was going on. After completing inspection, the shop owner told me that there was nothing defective about the band saw. But, what he wanted to tell me and couldn't (you know, potentially getting sued for defamation) was that the design was so poor that I had to adjust the blade's tension nearly every time I use it. Without a pressure gauge. Without any guidance as to how hard or where to push. So now, I'm stuck with a machine that isn't technically defective. It's just such a poor design that I am incapable of making the constant adjustments needed to keep the thing running. Maybe I should go back to college or technical school and get a degree in order to be able to run this thing. Just as I would consider having to change the oil every 3rd time I drive my car, or sharpen a can opener every 5th can I open to be unreasonable, so to do I consider having to nearly constantly adjust the blade tension and guide bearings in this band saw to be excessive and ridiculous. Am I Norm Abram from This Old House? No. I'm a hobby user who doesn't have a degree in mechanical engineering. I'm someone who thinks that the very little use I'm asking should easily be accommodated by the band saw I'm using. So now, I'm stuck with a machine that doesn't work without constant--and in my opinion-- excessive adjustment and care. Do yourself a favor. Don't buy this band saw. Don't buy anything that isn't local. Buy locally and get a full coverage warranty from your local provider. That way, if you're unfortunate enough to have purchased a lemon of a design like I did, the company will be there locally to make things right.
Do NOT buy this machine. I know there are times when customers take out their frustrations by using hyperbole to trash the name of a company or product, but this is an instance when simple facts of the matter will do just fine. I am a hobby user who does wood carving of figurines or different small wooden objects--no re-sawing of massive chunks of firewood or cabinetry. An occasional 10-15 second cut of pine or maple stock.No hard angles whatsoever. On average, I would need a saw for 2-3 minutes of running time per week. I bought this band saw to save me time from having to make cuts that are too challenging or too painstaking to do with a handsaw. Boy, am I sorry I bought this saw. Plain and simple...the blade keeps coming out of adjustment (tension or bearings) and starts cutting inward toward the fence. There is no pressure gauge to tell the user how tight to keep the blade. The user's manual says there should be no more than 1/8 or 1/10 of an inch of movement when the blade is pushed. They don't say where to push. They don't say how hard to push. The first band saw I ordered (yes, I did say the first one), came out of the box and within 30 seconds of cutting a piece of 5/8 inch pine, the blade started cutting a rounded line toward the fence. If I hadn't stopped, the tension from the blade getting pinched in the wood would have caused the blade to snap. Figuring I was doing something wrong, I re-read the owner's manual cover to cover, which didn't take long. No resolution. I consulted YouTube, figuring there was someone else who knew more about band saws than I do. After trying approximately 8-10 different adjustment fixes, I came to the same realization as before. No resolution. A worker I know who knows a great deal about woodworking machinery came to my house and spent 20-30 minutes making adjustments, based on the manual and his own expertise. No resolution. I called WEN and explained the situation. After hearing all I had gone through, WEN very nicely (yes, I did just say they were nice) sent me a new band saw. I boxed up the first and sent it away in a WEN-paid Fed Ex shipment box. I set up the new saw, and for about 2 glorious weeks, the band saw performed the never more than 2-3 minutes of weekly cutting time that I required. Then, while cutting a piece of pine, the blade started turning again. Essentially, the new blade on the new band saw was doing the SAME thing as before. I called Amazon. They said it had been past the initial time period when they could do something (understandable) and that I needed to call either WEN or Square Trade, the insurance policy I'd bought at the time with the band saw. I called WEN and they said that the blade that they had put on the band saw in the factory was defective. I began to get that sinking feeling of having been suckered because why would there be two consecutive band saws with two consecutive defective blades. I told WEN that I didn't consider my experience with changing blades sufficient to eliminate a defective blade as being the culprit, so they recommended a shop near me that would complete the changing of the blade. Because the band saw at this point was past the initial 30 day period for Amazon to cover the cost of the repair and before the 2nd year of the warranty for my Square Trade insurance to kick in, I was on the hook for the $65 shop fee to figure out what was going on. After completing inspection, the shop owner told me that there was nothing defective about the band saw. But, what he wanted to tell me and couldn't (you know, potentially getting sued for defamation) was that the design was so poor that I had to adjust the blade's tension nearly every time I use it. Without a pressure gauge. Without any guidance as to how hard or where to push. So now, I'm stuck with a machine that isn't technically defective. It's just such a poor design that I am incapable of making the constant adjustments needed to keep the thing running. Maybe I should go back to college or technical school and get a degree in order to be able to run this thing. Just as I would consider having to change the oil every 3rd time I drive my car, or sharpen a can opener every 5th can I open to be unreasonable, so to do I consider having to nearly constantly adjust the blade tension and guide bearings in this band saw to be excessive and ridiculous. Am I Norm Abram from This Old House? No. I'm a hobby user who doesn't have a degree in mechanical engineering. I'm someone who thinks that the very little use I'm asking should easily be accommodated by the band saw I'm using. So now, I'm stuck with a machine that doesn't work without constant--and in my opinion-- excessive adjustment and care. Do yourself a favor. Don't buy this band saw. Don't buy anything that isn't local. Buy locally and get a full coverage warranty from your local provider. That way, if you're unfortunate enough to have purchased a lemon of a design like I did, the company will be there locally to make things right.
Works well. Decent power for the size. Only gets bogged down when cutting some really thick hardwoods. Put a 1/2†blade with 4 tpi and it’s been working pretty well for most wood. Tracks well and cuts smoothly without many saw marks using the 1/2†blade. The blade that comes with it is 3/8†and does ok for some small cuts but doesn’t leave as smooth of a surface. Used a 24 tpi blade to cut some 1/8†aluminum with ease. Haven’t been able to cut high carbon steel with it but I probably just need to invest in a really nice blade for that. Dust collection is not bad. Took some adjusting but does well enough with typical shop vac. A large dust collector would probably be more ideal given the attachment hole is rather large. Tracking is pretty quick. Tension is easy to adjust. Guidewheels are quick to adjust as well. Changing blades is a little bit more of a hastle at times. Can be a pain removing the wider blade. It tends to get caught in the guidepost and takes some care to get out. Otherwise, not a big deal. Belt speed has to be adjusted by loosening the bolts that secure the motor and the changing which wheel the belt fits around. Rather simple task and takes maybe 3 mins. I bought it to use for knife making and other small projects. Seems like it will continue to work well for knife scales and non-ferrous metals. Very pleased with it so far, especially for the price.
Works well. Decent power for the size. Only gets bogged down when cutting some really thick hardwoods. Put a 1/2†blade with 4 tpi and it’s been working pretty well for most wood. Tracks well and cuts smoothly without many saw marks using the 1/2†blade. The blade that comes with it is 3/8†and does ok for some small cuts but doesn’t leave as smooth of a surface. Used a 24 tpi blade to cut some 1/8†aluminum with ease. Haven’t been able to cut high carbon steel with it but I probably just need to invest in a really nice blade for that. Dust collection is not bad. Took some adjusting but does well enough with typical shop vac. A large dust collector would probably be more ideal given the attachment hole is rather large. Tracking is pretty quick. Tension is easy to adjust. Guidewheels are quick to adjust as well. Changing blades is a little bit more of a hastle at times. Can be a pain removing the wider blade. It tends to get caught in the guidepost and takes some care to get out. Otherwise, not a big deal. Belt speed has to be adjusted by loosening the bolts that secure the motor and the changing which wheel the belt fits around. Rather simple task and takes maybe 3 mins. I bought it to use for knife making and other small projects. Seems like it will continue to work well for knife scales and non-ferrous metals. Very pleased with it so far, especially for the price.
Bought this from Sears/Target for $271.89. Read some good reviews as well as a few very bad ones. After setting up and using it for a day , I was panicking that I prematurely threw out the box to return it. But after dozens of you tube videos on properly setting up a bandsaw, the next day was a pleasure. Properly setting up this band saw is a bit of a nightmare, but afterwards it performed like the champ that many other reviewers said it was. Cant understand why these things arent preset at the factory to avoid people thinking that they bought a piece of junk. The few design flaws i found were the light is attached to the back side of the saw, shining more in your face than on the blade. But its on a flexible extension so you can munipulate it a bit. The gui de adjustments or hidden and hard to reach with the included allen keys, and the single point guide (although stable) is insufficient. So far i love this saw and highly recommend it, but be ready for some long arduous adjusting to get it just right for operation. Forgot to mention that there is no reference point for adjusting the blade tension, you have to figure it out as you go along and make your own reference marks.
Bought this from Sears/Target for $271.89. Read some good reviews as well as a few very bad ones. After setting up and using it for a day , I was panicking that I prematurely threw out the box to return it. But after dozens of you tube videos on properly setting up a bandsaw, the next day was a pleasure. Properly setting up this band saw is a bit of a nightmare, but afterwards it performed like the champ that many other reviewers said it was. Cant understand why these things arent preset at the factory to avoid people thinking that they bought a piece of junk. The few design flaws i found were the light is attached to the back side of the saw, shining more in your face than on the blade. But its on a flexible extension so you can munipulate it a bit. The guide adjustments or hidden and hard to reach with the included allen keys, and the single point guide (although stable) is insufficient. So far i love this saw and highly recommend it, but be ready for some long arduous adjusting to get it just right for operation. Forgot to mention that there is no reference point for adjusting the blade tension, you have to figure it out as you go along and make your own reference marks.
Saw works great but does require some adjustments as described in other reviews. Setup was straightforward and all the parts were in the box. Just followed the instructions and was ready to tune up the saw. Saw has two speeds and comes set on slower speed. The speed needs to be adjusted to the higher setting for woodworking. Also, lower wheel was slightly out of alignment and had to be adjusted. The manual didn't come with instructions but they are readily available on the internet (check Rikon). I had to adjust the upper wheel tracking and the blade guides but once all the adjustments were made the saw performs very well. Tracking needed to be adjusted and the saw is very sensitive to adjustment. Just increment slowly and be patient. I switched to a 1/2 in, 4 tpi blade and as a test, was able to quickly resaw a 1 x 6 with minimal pull on the motor. The cut was smooth and straight. Provided rip fence needs to be aligned with the miter slot but the process is very simple and takes only a minute. Light is a nice feature but tends to provide glare off table. Multi-size dust ports work great to reduce dust and there is a small brush on the lower wheel to help remove sawdust buildup on the blade itself. Tensioning is a trial/error process and requires a little patience. Would be nice to have a tension guide or a tension quick release rather than having to back off the tension knob. All in all, the saw seems to be a great value once some tuneup is completed. I deducted one star for the multiple adjustments needed to get it set up correctly, work light glare, and lack of tension quick release. UPDATE: Blade tension knob broke off after being used about 5 times. Lowered to 2 stars.
Saw works great but does require some adjustments as described in other reviews. Setup was straightforward and all the parts were in the box. Just followed the instructions and was ready to tune up the saw. Saw has two speeds and comes set on slower speed. The speed needs to be adjusted to the higher setting for woodworking. Also, lower wheel was slightly out of alignment and had to be adjusted. The manual didn't come with instructions but they are readily available on the internet (check Rikon). I had to adjust the upper wheel tracking and the blade guides but once all the adjustments were made the saw performs very well. Tracking needed to be adjusted and the saw is very sensitive to adjustment. Just increment slowly and be patient. I switched to a 1/2 in, 4 tpi blade and as a test, was able to quickly resaw a 1 x 6 with minimal pull on the motor. The cut was smooth and straight. Provided rip fence needs to be aligned with the miter slot but the process is very simple and takes only a minute. Light is a nice feature but tends to provide glare off table. Multi-size dust ports work great to reduce dust and there is a small brush on the lower wheel to help remove sawdust buildup on the blade itself. Tensioning is a trial/error process and requires a little patience. Would be nice to have a tension guide or a tension quick release rather than having to back off the tension knob. All in all, the saw seems to be a great value once some tuneup is completed. I deducted one star for the multiple adjustments needed to get it set up correctly, work light glare, and lack of tension quick release. UPDATE: Blade tension knob broke off after being used about 5 times. Lowered to 2 stars.
This 10" saw is robust and very heavy. I wrenched my back lifting it out of the box. It's very quiet and smooth running. Assembly took me about an hour. Right out of the box it was calibrated nearly perfectly. The cast iron table is large and flat with a deviation of about .003" low in the center. The fence is great as it can be reconfigured for different needs. The miter gauge is cheap and sloppy. I will remake it to fit tighter in the slot. I have heard complaints about this saw being hard to setup but for me that is not the case. I like having the ability to be able to adjust all aspects of the saw. I don't have any major complaints. Pros - many - robust, powerful, quiet, smooth running, LED lamp, cast iron table, good saw blade ... Cons - very few - cheap miter gauge, the stand is a bit low for my taste but I will add casters later on which might improve the height.
This 10" saw is robust and very heavy. I wrenched my back lifting it out of the box. It's very quiet and smooth running. Assembly took me about an hour. Right out of the box it was calibrated nearly perfectly. The cast iron table is large and flat with a deviation of about .003" low in the center. The fence is great as it can be reconfigured for different needs. The miter gauge is cheap and sloppy. I will remake it to fit tighter in the slot. I have heard complaints about this saw being hard to setup but for me that is not the case. I like having the ability to be able to adjust all aspects of the saw. I don't have any major complaints. Pros - many - robust, powerful, quiet, smooth running, LED lamp, cast iron table, good saw blade ... Cons - very few - cheap miter gauge, the stand is a bit low for my taste but I will add casters later on which might improve the height.
Out of the box the saw was great for a beginning woodworker. Cut some boxes and some other simple projects and loved this band saw for the value. Then I went to change the blade to 3/8 Bosch blade and my nightmare began. Mistake No.1: I did not mark the original factory tension location. This made re-tensioning a nightmare of trial and error. Mistake No.2: tracking on a 3/8 band was nothing but trial and error. Increase or decrease tension = reset tracking. Change tension too much = loss of tracking and BANG jumped blade. Sensitive is not the right word for it, frustrating as all get out is more like it. I want to be doing woodworking, not spending 2 hours tweaking knobs a quarter turn, adjusting everything, trying a test cut only to have the cut look horrible or the dreaded "BANG" of a blade jump. After a Sunday morning of frustration, I threw in the towel on this one and will be s elling it on Craig's list. I was hoping to "economize" but all that ended up doing was being a big waste of time and money. Reminds me of something I was told along time ago "The most expensive tool in your shop is the one that you don't use or does not work."
Out of the box the saw was great for a beginning woodworker. Cut some boxes and some other simple projects and loved this band saw for the value. Then I went to change the blade to 3/8 Bosch blade and my nightmare began. Mistake No.1: I did not mark the original factory tension location. This made re-tensioning a nightmare of trial and error. Mistake No.2: tracking on a 3/8 band was nothing but trial and error. Increase or decrease tension = reset tracking. Change tension too much = loss of tracking and BANG jumped blade. Sensitive is not the right word for it, frustrating as all get out is more like it. I want to be doing woodworking, not spending 2 hours tweaking knobs a quarter turn, adjusting everything, trying a test cut only to have the cut look horrible or the dreaded "BANG" of a blade jump. After a Sunday morning of frustration, I threw in the towel on this one and will be s elling it on Craig's list. I was hoping to "economize" but all that ended up doing was being a big waste of time and money. Reminds me of something I was told along time ago "The most expensive tool in your shop is the one that you don't use or does not work."
Assembly and actual ease of use are great but I can't recommend this because the bearing cover came off on its first use. There was also a small chrome crimp pin that broke off from somewhere and was found in the lower wheel chamber. There is no way to re-seat the bearing cover which leaves the bearings exposed to every piece of dust and debris created during cutting. I also haven't had the best experience trying to get this resolved as well.
Assembly and actual ease of use are great but I can't recommend this because the bearing cover came off on its first use. There was also a small chrome crimp pin that broke off from somewhere and was found in the lower wheel chamber. There is no way to re-seat the bearing cover which leaves the bearings exposed to every piece of dust and debris created during cutting. I also haven't had the best experience trying to get this resolved as well.
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- In which states is it also traded? You can find them more in Georgia Illinois Mississippi Idaho Missouri but they are all over the country
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Steerer cutting guide Planet X cutting guide Topeak Saw Guide X Tools star nut Installer LifeLine X-Tools Saw Guide - Hotlines UKwww.hotlines-uk.com › lifeline-x-tools-saw-guide-prod198719X-Tools Saw Guide The X-Tools Saw Guide willl give you a perfectly square cut time after time. A simple yet highly efficient way of getting the exact cut you ...Images View all View allSG-8 Saw Guide for Carbon Composite Forks - YouTubehttps://www.youtube.com › watchApr 26, 2012 · More info: http://www.parktool.com/product/threadless-saw-guide-for- ... Park Tool has been ...Duration: 1:23 Posted: Apr 26, 2012THREADLESS SAW GUIDE Topeakhttps://www.topeak.com › global › products › shop-tools › 574-threadless-...Threadless Saw Guide provides straight cut on steer tubes. Accommodates 1” ... Includes 2 mm Saw Guide Spacer for carbon saw blades (saw blades not included) ... Size, 11 X 6.5 x 3.9 cm / 4.3” x 2.6” x 1.5”. To ol Material, Hardened steel.Related
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